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ISBN-10: 1846685192

ISBN-13: 9781846685194

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Calandre (Paco Rabanne) aldehydic floral$$ Some years ago, the French perfumery world, distressed by the resemblance of Molinard’s Nirmala to Angel and the impossibility of copyrighting a (usually secret) formula, tried to set up a commission of experts that would decide when a perfume was a copy. The idea foundered on the Rive Gauche problem: RG came a year after Calandre (1969) and smelled sufficiently similar that even a perfumer could briefly mistake their drydowns in isolation. Nevertheless, RG was in many ways an improvement on Calandre, richer, darker, more complex.

L’Artisan Parfumeur) vanilla cardboard$$$ Olivia Giacobetti is here at her imaginative, humorous best, and Dzing! is a masterpiece. Dzing! smells of paper, and you can spend a good while trying to figure out whether it is packing cardboard, kraft wrapping paper, envelopes while you lick the glue, old books, or something else. I have no idea whether this was the objective, but I have a few clues as to why it happened. Lignin, the stuff that prevents all trees from adopting the weeping habit, is a polymer made up of units that are closely related to vanillin.

Composed by Olivier Polge, son of Chanel’s Jacques, it takes its place among the half-dozen best masculines of the last ten years. In structure, it flirts with the virtuoso modernist complexity of Hugo Boss’s Baldessarini and the muted candied-fruit colors of Chanel’s Egoïste. Where it differs is in an interesting, powder-gray iris top note and a drydown like an attenuated version of Chance with more tobacco. Refined, comfortable, and most of all a textbook example of successful top-down design.

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A Little Book of Perfumes: The 100 Greatest Scents


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